Bar Making Machine Cutting Milling Tools Alloy Inlaid Round Bar Cutter Sharp

Cutting wood round rods and losing time to a dull blade? The 38508516 round bar cutter is the alloy inlaid version: a steel body with a cemented carbide cutting head inlaid at the edge, listed for wood rod bar cutting on a CNC round bar making machine. It is the sharp of two versions, individually packed one piece per pack, and ships in 1–7 working days. Wood only — five contaminants will end the inlay early. Price is quoted against your quantity.

Three things stop a round bar line: a dull cutter that tears the rod surface instead of shearing it, the wrong grade chipping on the first knot, and a dry regrind that takes the hardness out of the edge. All three are cutter decisions, not machine faults.

The 38508516 round bar cutter is the alloy inlaid version — a steel body with a cemented carbide cutting head inlaid at the edge, listed for wood rod bar cutting on a CNC round bar making machine. The body carries the load and the carbide carries the cut, so sharpness sits in one inlay at the tip, at the point that touches the rod.

Carbide buys hardness and gives up impact resistance against white steel, so keep five things out of the cut — sand, stones, nails, hard knots and dead knots. When the edge stops cutting cleanly, change the tool: a dull inlay jumps under overload cutting and the holder takes the damage.

Resharpening is wet, on a diamond wheel, which keeps the inlay cool. Each cutter is individually packed, one piece per pack, and ships in 1–7 working days; shipment is agreed per order and price is quoted against quantity.

The grade, the edge, the clamping slot, the packing and the regrind — five things decide whether this cutter suits your line:

• Carbide inlay at the edge — the sharp corner is carbide; the steel body behind it carries the bending load.
• Two versions, one part number — alloy inlaid for a clean sheared rod surface, high speed steel for knotted stock.
• Concave cutting edge — radius-ground to shear a round rod, and regrindable back on the same curve.
• One slotted clamping hole — a single elongated slot sets blade height and holds the cutter solid in the holder.
• Load stays in the body — only the tip is carbide, so a chipped edge costs a regrind rather than a new cutter.
• Wood only — sand, stones, nails, hard knots and dead knots are the five things that end an alloy edge early.
• Wet diamond regrinding — water keeps the carbide cool; a dry standard wheel takes the hardness out of it.
• Individually packed — one piece per pack, so the edge arrives unknocked and goes straight into the holder.
• 1–7 working days — the stated lead time, which is what makes one spare on the shelf practical.

A buyer with a dull cutter has two options: run it another shift, or stop the line and wait for a replacement. This cutter is built so the second option is cheap enough to plan for.

• A spare costs less than a stopped line. At 1–7 working days lead time you can keep one on the shelf and change the edge inside a single shift.
• The grade is chosen, not guessed. Two versions under one part number, 38508516: alloy inlaid where the rod surface has to come off clean, high speed where knotted stock is normal.
• You resharpen one edge, not a blade. Sharpness is carried by a single carbide inlay at the tip, so the wear part is one small edge instead of the whole body.
• The cut stays where you set it. Wet diamond regrinding brings the concave edge back on the same curve, so the profile you set at the machine is the profile you keep running.
• Failures you cannot see are the expensive ones. Changing the tool before overload cutting protects the holder and stops the torn surface that only shows up two operations later.

A CNC round bar making machine, cutting wood round rods. The listing gives the usage as CNC rod cutting and the application as round bar making machine — wood rod bar cutting, so the fitment check is the machine, not the wood species.

This is the alloy inlaid version. The listing carries two versions on part number 38508516, an alloy inlaid cutter and a high speed cutter, and the title, material and keyword lines of this page all point to the alloy one.

Take alloy if you want the sharper edge and your stock is clean; take high speed if the stock carries knots. Carbide is harder, white steel resists impact better, so the choice follows what is in the wood, not the price.

Change it as soon as the cut stops being clean. A dull inlay is not just slower — it jumps under overload cutting, and that is what damages the holder and the rod surface.

Yes, on a diamond grinding wheel with water. Wet diamond grinding keeps the carbide cool; a standard wheel run dry is the fastest way to take the hardness out of the inlay.

Yes, wood is the listed material. Keep five things out of the cut — sand, stones, nails, hard knots and dead knots — because each one is an impact the carbide inlay is not built to absorb.

Individually packed, one piece per pack, in 1–7 working days. One piece per pack means the edge is protected in transit rather than loose in a box with other cutters.

Price is quoted per order against your quantity, and shipment is agreed per order. Your own forwarder is accepted; send the part number 38508516, the version and the quantity to get a quote.